First visit: July 1999
Subsequent visits: July 2003, September 2003, June 2005, March 2009, April 2009, March 2013.
Visited: Sarajevo, Banja Luka, Mostar, Tuzla, Bijeljina, Bihac, Brcko, Trebinje, Laktasi, Derventa, Gradacac, Foca, Visegrad, Gorazde, Zvornik, Pelagicevo, Ugljevik, Orasac
Highlight: The gorge around the river Neretva; this country is wonderful for nature.
Troubled Bosnia and Herzegovina actually functions like two countries even though there is no border between Srpska and the Federation. Sarajevo was a disaster when I visited in 2003, and apart from the very centre with its Ottoman feel, the rest was a dead loss. Mostar was harrowing too at the time, while Tuzla was colourless and dull. With cemetaries and bullet-holes still evident, this is not a place for those too sensitive...yet the people are lovely and cheerful and their open attitude will win you over. Srpska is less destroyed, but has less natural beauty, though Banja Luka is not bad.