Azerbaijan - Nagorno-Karabakh
First (only) visit: October 2008
Visited: Stepanakert, Sushi, Askeran, Martakert, Vank.
One of those places nobody recognises, and yet it silently exists independently and one gets a red and blue visa sticker in the passport. Lovely green mountains, the freshest air I have ever inhaled, churches and a pretty, rebuilt capital make this well-worth going to. Harrowing destroyed villages near the front-line with Azerbaijan, I wish I could have seen Aghdam which is a complete ghost-town.
Highlight: Meeting an 85-year-old man in a village in the middle of nowhere who spoke Greek (was of Pontiac Greek ancestry) and treated us to home-made honey and cheese while telling us how he entered Berlin with the Soviet forces. You can't beat that.
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